Jump right in and start reading from the first logbook entry!

Don't miss the Words-and-Pictures Pages!

Introduction Background The Meguri Features Logbooks

There are seven indexes to the Aki Meguri pages:

• The History Index
• The Old Tokaido Index
• The Yamato Index
• The Shikoku Pilgrimage Index
• The Logbook Index
• The Journal Index
• The Words and Pictures Index

If you are interested in the background of the Aki Meguri, including the Prospectus that explained to my friends what I was doing (and how), or the Archives containing the Logbooks for the Prelude and Postlude, start at the History Index.  You can also find a section on the mechanics of the pilgrimage entitled  "To Be a Pilgrim," and a nod to the old "Connected Japan" site on which these pages were first published.

If you are interested in any one of the Three Stages of the journey, start at the Old Tokaido Index, the Yamato Index, or the Shikoku Pilgrimage Index as appropriate.

To follow the entire journey sequentially, start at the Logbook Index, or jump to the first logbook entry. You can also find locations there alphabetically.

If you are more interested in my philosophical ponderings (abbreviated as "B.S.,") start at the Journal Index.

Finally, if you prefer images to words, see the features that can be found in the Words and Pictures Index.

Introduction

On September 5th, 2001, The Temple Guy took the single step that led to an epic pilgrimage of 10 weeks through the heart of Japan, predominantly on foot.  This 2,000 kilometer (1,200 mile) "Aki Meguri" (Autumn Pilgrimage) was in many ways the experience that solidified his status as "The Temple Guy."  Throughout that experience I kept a daily homepage (before I know what a "blog" was).  It was raw.  What you see here is a slightly more processed version of those daily posts.

First, I walked the historic Old Tokaido highway, a nearly 500-kilometer road created by the shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa in 1601 (I was walking in the 400th anniversary year).  The highway joined Edo (now Tokyo), the seat of the shogunate, to Kyoto, home of the Emperor.  It was punctuated by 53 stations, and my Logbook records my arrival at each one.

Next, I used public transportation and walked through parts of the Yamato area, the heart of old Japan that includes Nara, Asuka, and Mt. Koya. This was mainly "sacred tourism," a visit to some of Japan's most popular sights, including the Great Buddha of Nara.

Finally, I arrived on Shikoku.  The 88-Temple Pilgrimage there is Japan’s oldest and longest.  Here my journey took on a decidedly "holy" aspect, which is reflected in the Logbook.

 As an integral part of my journey, I offered several ways for people to join me.

• First, I was on a mission to the gods.  Like pilgrims throughout the ages, I carried my friends’ petitions and thanksgivings with me, and expressed them at appropriate places along the way.

• Second, of course, I needed cash.  I asked friends for financial support and offered business owners the chance to consider official sponsorship.

• Third, I asked everyone to "follow me" as I wrote and posted information along the way.  I asked them to  check in on the nuts-and-bolts logbook, and the more reflective journal, as often as possible.

• Fourth, I asked them to stay in touch by private e-mail.

In this revised version of the old Connected Japan homepage, you can read about my "mission" and the financial aspects of the trip in the "Prospectus."  The Logbook is now spread over the Old Tokaido, Yamato, and Shikoku stages, and you can still e-mail me!

Aki Meguri Site Map

Background

• Prospectus: how I first announced this project to my friends
  • A Mission to the Gods
  • The Logbook
    • A sample entry
  • The Journal
  • A request for support
  • A Letter in English
  • A Letter in Japanese
  • A Request for Corporate Sponsorship
  • A Tribute to the many Donors
• To Be a Pilgrim: the mechanics of pilgrimages
  • a map of the entire course
  • a record of my progress
  • the places I prayed each day
  • information on how I prayed
  • a handwritten copy of the hannya shingyo (the Heart Sutra)
  • a discussion of o-settai, the custom of giving gifts to pilgrims
• Archives
  • Prelude: the days before I left on the journey
  • Postlude: after the journey, and before my return to America
• Connected Japan, a look back at an old dream

The Aki Meguri, Stage by Stage

• Background Information
• My support pages
  • The 53 Stations Distance Chart
  • Words-and-Pictures on the Old Tokaido
  • Journal Entries
• The Logbook
• Resources

• Background Information
• My support pages
  • The Sites of Old Yamato
  • Words-and-Pictures in Old Yamato
  • Journal Entries in Old Yamato
• The Logbook
• Resources

• Background Information
• My support pages
  • The 88 Temples of Shikoku
  • Words-and-Pictures on Shikoku
• The Logbook
• The Gallery
• Resources

Features

• An Index to the Words and Pictures pages
• The Temple Guy at the 53 Stations of the Old Tokaido
• A Gallery of the 88 Temple of Shikoku
• An Index to the Journal Entries from the Old Tokaido and Yamato Stages

The Daily Logbooks, Start to Finish

Prelude Old Tokaido Yamato Shikoku Postlude

Prelude: Before the Trip

September 1st, 2001 (Saturday)

• I posted more background information in anticipation of the trip

September 2nd, 2001(Sunday)

• Sayonara Party--and a Close Shave The beginning of a style I sport to this very day

September 3rd, 2001(Monday)

• Pre-start Blues: The cold feet of a walking man

September 4th, 2001(Tuesday)

• The Big Day?  NOT!: This was my "announced" departure day, but...

The Old Tokaido Stage

September 5th, 2001(Wednesday)

• The Route: Nippori to Nihombashi, then through Ginza to Shinagawa; also, people's reactions to my clothing, some promises of what I'll (try to) do each day, a haiku, and plenty of road stories
• Words-and-Pictures: Ginza and Sengakuji

• The Route: Shinagawa to Kawasaki, another haiku, and a night outside
  • Journal: Thinking vs. Walking and My Companions on the Road
• Words-and-Pictures: Honsenji and Suzugamori Execution Ground

• The Route: Kawasaki to Hodogaya, downsizing, and a night at Tom and Yuka's
  • Journal: A Change in Technique
• Words-and-Pictures: Soujiji

• Sidetrip: Kamakura
• Words-and-Pictures: Engakuji and Tsurugaoka Hachimangu

• The Route: Hodogaya to Totsuka
  • Journal: Making Rain and Focus Points

• The Route: Totsuka to (almost) Chigasaki
  • Journal: Feet and Begging
• Words-and-Pictures: Yugyoji

There will be no entry for today, because I didn't walk due to the typhoon.  I will tell you about the word "typhoon" though: it's Japanese!  Taifu is made of two Chinese characters.  The first is the opening character of "Taiwan," and the second means "wind."  So taifu means "the wind from Taiwan."

• The Route: From 1 ri before Chigasaki to Ninomiya (between Oiso and Odawara).
  • Journal: A Place of Prayer and Teach Your Children Well
• Words-and-Pictures: Joshoji

• The Route: From Ninomiya to Odawara
• Words-and-Pictures: Togakuin, Six Jizo and Odawara Castle

• The Route: From Odawara to Moto-Hakone 
  • Journal: Fear
• Words-and-Pictures: The Ichirizuka at Hatajuku, Sai-no-kawara and Ishidatami

• The Route: From Moto-Hakone to (almost) Mishima
  • Journal: Lodgings
• Words-and-Pictures: Monuments on the Road to Mishima, Yamanaka Castle Ruins  and Soukanji

• The Route: From (almost) Mishima to Hara.
  • Journal: The American Tragedy
• Words-and-Pictures: Mishima Taisha

• The Route: From Hara to somewhere in Yoshiwara.
  • Journal: The Gods
• Words-and-Pictures: Shouinji

• The Route: From somewhere in Yoshiwara to past Yui
  • Journal: Maybe Bishop Berkeley was right!

• The Route: From Yui (Satta Pass) to somewhere past Ejiri (Shimizu).
  • Journal: Home
• Words-and-Pictures: Seikenji

• The Route: From somewhere past Ejiri (Shimizu) to somewhere past Mariko.
  • Journal: The Road

• The Route: From somewhere past Mariko to almost Shimada.
  • Journal: The Body
• Words-and-Pictures: The Buddhas of the Five Directions (Gochi Nyorai)

• The Route: (Almost) Shimada to Kanaya
  • Journal: The Fine Art of Conversation

• The Route: Kanaya to Kakegawa
  • Journal: Honesty, Veracity, and Equanimity
• Words and Pictures: Suwahara Castle  and Kyuenji

• The Route: Kakegawa to Iwata Station
  • Journal: Youth Hostels

• The Route: Iwata Station to Hamamatsu
• Words and Pictures: Old Stones

• The Route: Hamamatsu to (almost) Shirasuka
  • Journal: Emerging Themes
• Words and Pictures: Maisaka's Waki Honjin and The Arai Barrier

• The Route: (Almost) Shirasuka to Futagawa
  • Journal: Tek-na-luh-jee
• Words and Pictures: The Futagawa Honjin

• I took a day off!  Read more about it here.

September 29th, 2001(Saturday)

• The Route: Futagawa to Past Akasaka
  • Journal: Modernization

• The Route: Past Akasaka to Okazaki
  • Journal: Build My Church

• The Route: Okazaki to (almost) Narumi
  • Journal: "Are You Japanese?"
• Words and Pictures: Chiryu Shrine and Statuary

• The Route: (Almost) Narumi to Miya
  • Journal: What if...?
• Words and Pictures: Kasadera Kannon

• The Route: "Miya" to Past Yokkaichi
  • Journal: Jiriki and Tariki

October 4th, 2001(Thursday)

• The Route: Past Yokkaichi to (almost) Kameyama
  • Journal: Directness

• The Route: Almost Kameyama to Almost Tsuchiyama
  • Journal: Cheating

• The Route: Almost Tsuchiyama to Past Minakuchi
  • Journal: Secret Helpers

• The Route: Past Minakuchi to Past Kusatsu
  • Journal: Temples

• The Route: Past Kusatsu to Almost Kyoto
  • Journal: The Road Ahead: Yamato area
• Words and Pictures: Ishiyamadera

• The Route: Almost Kyoto to KYOTO!
  • Journal: Endings and Beginnings
• Words and Pictures: Toji

The Yamato Stage

October 10th, 2001(Wednesday)

• Tourist Log: Nara

• Words-and-Pictures pages:

  • Nannendo
  • Todaiji
  • Saidaiji
  • Kikoji
  • The Tomb of Emperor Suinin
  • Toshodaiji
  • Yakushiji
  • Horyuji

October 11th, 2001(Thursday)

• Tourist Log: Asuka

  • Journal: Old Stones and the First Noble Truth

October 12th, 2001(Friday)

• Tourist Log: Mount Koya 1

  • Journal: A New Beginning

• Words and Pictures: The Garan on Mount Koya 

October 13th, 2001(Saturday)

• Tourist Log: Mount Koya 2

• Words and Pictures: The Okunoin on Mount Koya

The Shikoku Stage

October 14th (Sunday)

• The Route: Temples 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, (06)

October 15th (Monday)

• The Route: Temples 06, 07, 08, 09, 10

October 16th (Tuesday)

• The Route: Temples 11, 13, 14, 15, 16

October 17th (Wednesday)

• The Route: Temples 17, 18

October 18th (Thursday)

• The Route: Temple 12
• Words and Pictures: Emma-O and the Judges in Hell

October 19th (Friday)

• The Route: Temples (19), 22, 23

October 20th (Saturday)

• The Route: Temples 19, 20

October 21st (Sunday)

• The Route: Temples 21, Bangai

October 22nd (Monday)

• The Route: No temples today!

October 23rd (Tuesday)

• The Route: Temples 24, 25

October 24th (Wednesday)

• The Route: Temples 26, 27, 28

October 25th (Thursday)

• The Route: Temples 29, 30, 31, 32

October 26th (Friday)

• The Route: Temples 33, 34, 35, 36

October 27th (Saturday)

• The Route: Temple 38

October 28th (Sunday)

• The Route: Temples 37, 39, 40, 41, 42

October 29th (Monday)

• The Route: Temples 43, Bangai

October 30th (Tuesday)

• The Route: Temples 44, 45

October 31st (Wednesday)

• The Route: Temples 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51 and two Bangais
• Words and Pictures: The Sons of Emon Saburo

November 1st (Thursday)

• The Route: Temples 52, 53

November 2nd (Friday)

• The Route: Temples 54, 55, 56

November 3rd (Saturday)

• The Route: Temples 57, 58, 59

November 4th (Sunday)

• The Route: Temples 61, 62, 63, 64

November 5th (Monday)

• The Route: Temples 60, 65

November 6th (Tuesday)

• The Route: Temples 66, 67
• Words and Pictures: 500 Rakkan and A Family Shrine

November 7th (Wednesday)

• The Route: Temples 68, 69, 70

November 8th (Thursday)

• The Route: Temples 71, 72, 73, 74, 75

November 9th (Friday)

• The Route: Temples 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, Bangai

November 10th (Saturday)

• The Route: Temples 81, 82

November 11th (Sunday)

• The Route: Temple 83

November 12th (Monday)

• The Route: Temples 84, 85, 86
• Words and Pictures: The Shichifukujin and The Shitenno

November 13th (Tuesday)

• The Route: Temples 87, 88

November 14th (Wednesday)

• The Route: Temple 1

Postlude: After the Trip

November 15th  (Thursday)

• The Return to Koyasan: Closing the final circle

November 16th  (Friday)

• From Koyasan to Mie: Where I meet my transformed lady

Note: The following two "Logbooks" are actually Words-and-Picture pages

November 30th and December 2nd  (Friday and Sunday)

• Farewell Meetings at El Torito, Shinjuku: Pictures of old friends and new

December 3rd (Monday)

• My last farewell party: At Zest, with the "inner circle" of the Tequila Philosophers

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